Aphids

What you see

Pear-shaped, 1-3 mm, in dense colonies on the softest new growth and flower buds. Two little tubes (cornicles) stick out of the rear end - that pair of exhaust pipes is what separates an aphid from every other small bug. Green, black, grey, pink or woolly white depending on species.

Damage

Curled, puckered or sticky new leaves. A shiny varnish (honeydew) on leaves below, later turning black with sooty mould. Ants marching up and down the stem. Distorted flower buds.

Lifecycle on this coast

Astonishing speed: females give birth to live, already-pregnant young without mating, so a colony doubles every few days in warm weather. Winged forms appear when the colony gets crowded and fly to new plants. On this coast they breed nearly year-round, slowing only in high summer heat.

When to act

Tolerate small colonies entirely - they are the food that brings ladybirds and hoverflies into the garden. Act only when growing tips are visibly distorting, or on seedlings and broad bean tips where the plant cannot outgrow them.

Months: March, April, May, June, July, September, October, November

Plants it bothers

Broad bean, Rose, Tomato, Sweet pepper, Cabbage, Lettuce, Citrus, Peach, Apple, Chilli

Natural enemies

Ladybird, Hoverfly, Lacewing, Parasitic wasp (Aphidius), Blue tit

Remedies

Water jet and finger squash, Insecticidal soap spray, Encourage predators, Grease bands, Neem oil spray

The thing people get wrong

Before you spray anything, look for the ants. Ants farm aphids for honeydew and actively drive off ladybirds and hoverflies to protect their herd. Put a grease band round the trunk or stem, cut the ants out of the equation, and the predators you already have will often clear the colony within a week - no spray, no cost.